Easy Zucchini and Corn Saute

Sautéed Zucchini and Corn with Mexican Oregano and Cumin

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Here we are now deep in glorious summer.  Long days, heat, farmer’s markets over flowing with gobs of stone fruit, berries, tomatoes, summer squash and corn.  Here is a quick and hella easy recipe for a sauté of corn off the cob and summer squash (appearing here in the guise of zucchini but feel free to use the yellow version or any of the patty pan varieties as well).  If you’re squeezed for time or just not feeling the motivation to fancy up your dinner this can fit the bill.  Comes together in just minutes with a minimum of ingredients.  Squash, corn, herbs, spices, salt, pepper and olive oil.  Its that simple.

Here is a link where you can entertain yourself with all things squash like, summer squash

One of the attributes of this dish that I enjoy is that it contains nothing but ingredients that are native to the Americas and are pre-Hispanic.  Mexican Oregano is not really an oregano as we understand it.  Our pre-Hispanic oregano or redbrush lippia is a member of the verbena family while those used in Mediterranean cuisines are cousins of mint.  Coupled with a bit of cumin and chili powder Mexican oregano transforms squash, corn or dried beans into a heady, sultry dish that can be more than the sum of its parts.

Be advised that fresh ingredients always work best.  If you feel tempted to add a few other ingredients by all means go for it.  But keep it simple.  My suggestions would be to take a summer red bell pepper like corno di toro that has been roasted and diced. If you’re feeling frisky onion and garlic won’t hurt either.

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Sautéed Zucchini and Corn with Mexican Oregano and Cumin

serves 4 as a side dish

  • 3 ears of Corn, kernels cut off the cob (yields about 3 cups)
  • 2 1/2 cups zucchini squash cut into thin triangle wedges (one good sized or two smaller)
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (only the good stuff please)
  • 1 teaspoons Mexican oregano
  • 1/2 teaspoon cumin, ground fine
  • 1 teaspoons chili powder (the generic kind is fine but if you happen to have ancho or new mexico chili powders lying by all means use them, alone or mixed together)
  • 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
  • 1/4 cup water

Heat a wide, shallow pan and add the oil. Get it hot but not smoking.  Add the corn and cook for 30 seconds over medium heat.  Add the 1/4 cup water and stir. Lower heat to low and cook just until the water is almost gone.  Raise the heat up to medium and add the zucchini, oregano, cumin and chili powder.  Stir and sauté all together until the squash is soft.  Add salt and serve.

Here are the numbers.

Nutrition Facts:

Serving Size  (157g)  Amount Per Serving Calories 210

Calories from Fat 140    % Daily Value Total Fat 15 g 23 %  Saturated Fat 2 g 10 %  Trans Fat 0 g    Cholesterol 0 mg 0 %  Sodium 520 mg 22 %  Total Carbohydrate 18 g 6 %  Dietary Fiber 4 g 16 %  Sugars 4 g    Protein 4 g                      Vitamin A   10 %  Vitamin C   25 %  Calcium   2 %  Iron   6 %

Summer Time and Its Hot Out There, so deal with it- smartly

Its hot out there in case you hadn’t noticed and dealing with its affects require some fore thought and planning.  Our coaching staff sent over an article they put together on the subject which offers some excellent and timely advice.  The following article can be put to good use and applied not matter what level of activity you engage in.  Daily, easy runs or rides necessitate the same maxims of hydration.  Longer or more intense sessions even more so.

Here are some timely tips, advice and hints on beating the heat and staying ahead of the game.  Kindly reprinted here with permission of Scott Saifer and Kendra Wenzel of Wenzel Coaching.  You can find them here:  http://www.wenzelcoaching.com/

They offer a variety of coaching and training programs for runners, cyclists and triathletes.  And here is a link to the full article on their website. You’ll find lots of other useful training and racing articles there as well. http://www.wenzelcoaching.com/blog/winning-in-the-heat/

.Winning in the Heat – Tips for Racing in High Temperatures

In the spring and summer, internally generated heat limits training intensity and affects the outcomes of races. Only about one fifth of the energy released by a athlete’s body during cycling ends up as useful work, with the other four-fifths emerging as heat. The higher the power output, the higher the heat production. Cruising along at 200 Watts (a reasonable all-day pace for a fit, medium sized cat-3 or 4 male) the body is generating ~800 Watts of heat, as much as eight 100-Watt light bulbs. On a cold day, that heat production is nice. One can ride comfortably in clothing in which one would freeze standing around. Cool air blowing over skin, even through a few layers of clothing, carries heat away as fast as it is generated. If one warms up a little, a bit of sweating keeps body temperature from rising more. Body temperature stays in the optimal range.

As ambient temperatures rise, riders dress more lightly so they can continue to dissipate waste heat as fast as it is produced. Muscles function optimally at an internal temperature of 101-102F (38-39C). At high enough air temperatures, it’s not possible to remove enough clothing to maintain optimal body temperature while pedaling hard. As internal temperature rises higher than the optimal range, performance decreases. The air temperature above which a rider’s performance will be impaired depends on conditioning, humidity, clothing and other factors that vary from individual to individual. For all riders, the ability to dissipate heat, rather than aerobic capacity, will become the primary limiter to performance in warm enough conditions.

When a rider pedals, the brain sends signals telling the muscles to push, but there are many inputs and feedback loops between the part of the brain that sends the initial request for pedal pushing and the signal that gets to the legs. In particular, as core temperatures rise beyond 102F (39C), the lower brain partially blocks signals from the upper brain to the legs. Thus at higher temperatures, one has to make a greater mental effort to maintain the same power. This is a survival mechanism. If one continues to generate heat faster than it can be dissipated such that the core temperature gets up around 106F (41C), the brain dies. Toughness allows one to work a little harder for a little longer, but success in hot races depends on controlling core body temperature far more than on being able to tough it out.

Dealing with Heat

High temperatures impair performance for all riders, but adoption of certain strategies can decrease the impairment, giving one an advantage over riders who do not employ those strategies or do not employ them as consistently or effectively.

1) Acclimatize to heat.

Regular, prolonged exposure to heat causes increases in blood-plasma volume and more uniform sweating over more of the body. Sweating removes heat only when the sweat evaporates from the skin. More uniform sweating leads to less dripping and more evaporation, allowing more heat to be dumped per amount of fluid sweated out. Increased plasma volume means a rider can sweat away more water before becoming dehydrated enough to impair performance. These two effects together allow an acclimated rider to perform better in heat than an unacclimated one.

One can identify acclimation visually. People who are not heat adjusted drip from their hairlines, armpits and crotches and become lethargic in heat. Acclimated people glisten all over, and stay energetic.

Efficient sweating and increased plasma volume delay dehydration and maintain blood supply for the muscles longer. Acclimatization allows one to continue to generate power where another rider would be slowed more by the heat. Heat acclimatization requires being warm enough to be sweating a little most of the time. Riding in heat and then returning to an air-conditioned building will not cause much acclimatization. Many hours spent a bit warm, riding or not, triggers the desirable changes more than riding in extreme heat. Get in the habit of wearing long sleeves, long pants and a hat when anywhere cooler than the race venues of the next few weeks. You’ve probably seen pictures of pros wearing caps and jackets while people around them are in shorts and tee shirts. They are not afraid of drafts. They are maintaining their heat-adjustment. Adjustment takes a few weeks to get going, and a few months to optimize, so start adjusting well before the hot season.

You don’t need to be exposed to extreme heat to adjust to heat. Training in sauna-like conditions will help prepare you mentally for the suffering of racing on hot days, so some actual training in heat is beneficial. More is not better though. When one trains in extreme heat, power production might be down 20-50% or even more for the same perceived effort. The effect of training on fitness development depends on the actual power produced, not the feeling of effort.

Heavy sweating makes it challenging to maintain hydration and electrolyte balance, so training in extreme heat requires more recovery time than a similar volume of training done in more hospitable weather. If it will be hot at mid-day, most of training should be done in the morning or evening or even in air-conditioned indoor spaces if that is the only way you can keep cool.

2) Train by heart rate rather than power, or develop hot-day power zones.

The stress on the body of generating a particular wattage on hot days is greater than the stress of generating the same wattage on pleasant days. Trying to hit normal power zones for the normal amounts of time on a very hot day “fries” riders. For riders who like to track such things, heat effectively increases the intensity factor of a given power output. Either base power zones for hot days on a hot-day FTP, or train by heart rate, being sure to back off when it is harder than usual to maintain your usual heart rates.

3) Keep Skin Wet.

Water evaporating from the skin cools the body. Water in the gut doesn’t. Drinking enough to maintain hydration is essential to performance, but beyond keeping up with sweat losses, drinking more doesn’t keep one cooler. Sprinkling water on the jersey and shorts and through the helmet is much more effective. Carry an extra bottle for this purpose (and remember which one it is so you won’t put sports drink on your hair). Arrange to take multiple bottles at feeds. If you are dropping out of a hot race, give your bottles to teammates first. Cold water is better than warm for both drinking and putting on the skin on hot days, but just barely. The amount of heat it takes to warm up cold water is miniscule compared to the amount it takes to evaporate it, so use cooler water when available, but don’t sweat about it. Ice absorbs a huge amount of heat as it melts, so ice vests and other ways of keeping ice against the skin can dramatically improve performance when heat is a limiter.

4) Dilute Sports Drink if needed.

Many riders feel bloated if they drink full-strength sports-drink on hot days. Mix sports drink at partial strength or alternate sips of sports drink with plain water. You don’t need and can’t absorb as much sugar as you will get with all the water you need on a really hot day. If you don’t feel bloated on hot days drinking full-strength sports drink, you may need to take more fluid.

5) Shorten the warm up.

A good warm up for a well trained rider takes most of an hour if not longer on a cool day, but a full-hour warm up on hot days will lead to overheating unless one can find a cool place to do it, such as in an air-conditioned store or school. If a cool space is not available, one should get organized and dressed and then sit in an air-conditioned car until about 25 minutes before the race, giving the legs a bit of rub-down while waiting. Getting out 25 minutes before start time and rolling around for 20 minutes, with just a few jumps at the end will prepare the body for harder work without risking overheating. Go to the line with wetted clothes and hair a few minutes before your start. If part of the start area is shaded, being there gives a further advantage.

6) Choose Summer Kit.

This should be obvious, but wear light colors if your team was smart enough to design light-colored kit. No matter how much the marketing materials talk about wicking action and efficient cooling, bare skin cools better than any fabric, though it doesn’t block sun. If it is not sunny, the lightest and thinnest clothing that covers the least possible skin is best. The body will absorb heat from the sun though, so on extremely sunny days, thin, light colored fabric over more of the body can be better. A bit of air space under the fabric is better for cooling, but worse for aerodynamics.

7) Carry a Belly Bottle.

Drink as much as you comfortably can in the final minutes before the start of a hot race or training ride. That way one can effectively carry three bottles, one in the belly and two on the bike.

8) Dial in Fluid Needs.

Weight yourself before and after rides. If you lost approximately one pound, you drank the right amount. If you lost more, drink more on your next ride of similar length in similar weather, one pint for each pound lost. If you are gaining more than a pound or two during rides, you are at risk of hyponatremia, a potentially deadly dilution of your blood electrolytes. Do not drink enough to gain weight on rides. Figure out and keep track of how much you need to drink on various rides. Plan for one additional small bottle per hour in a race compared to a training ride of the same length.

9) Sometimes, Hydration Backpacks are for smart people.

In temperate areas, it’s common for MTB riders to use hydration packs while road riders look down on them. In very hot areas, road riders know that hydration packs are the only way to carry enough water for a longer ride. Riders in temperate areas should take a clue from their desert dwelling siblings when their hometowns start to feel like the desert.

10) Supplement electrolytes.

Electrolyte needs vary a lot from rider to rider, but the hotter it gets the more people need to specifically supplement electrolytes. If you have no trouble in the heat, don’t worry about this, but if you suffer a lot, get yourself some electrolyte supplements and use them according to the directions. Each small bike-bottle of water that you sweat away carries about a half-teaspoon (2.5 grams) of salt. Multiply that by the number of bottles you drank on a ride to know how much salt needs to be replaced over the course of the day.

11) Look for salt.

Riders don’t show salt on their helmet straps, shorts or jersey backs until they begin to dehydrate. Once one is dehydrated enough to start sweating extra salt, it takes several days to get electrolyte balance back. Drinking water and eating salt help, but consuming them doesn’t immediately put them in the right compartments within the body. That takes time, so it’s much better to stay hydrated than to try to correct hydration and electrolytes post-ride. If you have salt on your kit, drink more on the next ride. If your competitor has salt on his or her kit, attack!

12) Keep a good attitude.

If you can convince yourself that you are good at riding in the heat you’ll have a double advantage over riders who get bummed out about the discomfort. First, being positive is an advantage in itself. Second, being positive helps you keep doing the things you need to do to take care of yourself, further growing your advantage.

13) Adjust tactics.

Increasing intensity means increasing heat production. On a day hot enough that heat dissipation is the limiter for most of the riders, attacks become self-limiting. A moment after attacking, a too-hot rider loses strength and comes back to the field. Chasers are also lazier. Take these facts into account when deciding whether to attack, or to help with a chase on a hot day.

14) Don’t be Stupid.

No matter how well acclimated you are and how well you follow these suggestions, at very high temperatures, especially if it is humid as well, it becomes impossible to keep body temperature in a survivable range while riding hard. If you start to feel light headed, or your skin turns intensely red, or you start to shiver or turn white on a hot day, you are approaching very serious, potentially deadly, trouble. If you have any of those signs, immediately get into a cooler place or at least some shade, and dowse yourself with the coldest available water or ice to get core temperature down as quickly as possible. Continuing to work hard with these signs of heat illness can literally kill one quite quickly. Watch teammates for these signs and help them make the right choices to stay alive. There will be other races. Be smart.

Doing It Right

Riding in extreme heat impairs performance for everyone. Most people find it at least mildly unpleasant. If you follow the suggestions above though, extreme heat will impair your performance less than the next rider’s, so heat actually becomes an advantage for you. Good luck with the hot season races.

Room Service / Stalking the Wild Morel

A little girl led me into a garage filled with bushels of morels.  She had collected them after school and on weekends, just as generations of Midwesterners had done before her.  ” I know where to look,” she explained…..In their world, what matters is that the woods are still able to produce their bounty – and their parents have shown them where to look for it.  – Raymond Sodolov, Fading Feast

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Another round of travel, again in the northern Middle West USA.  As I’ve written before in other posts how farmer’s markets can be many things.  A walk in the woods, a trip to Disneyland, inspiration for dinner, a social event, a barometer of what should be on the table that week.  And more.  I’ve commiserated with many a chef about what a sacrilege it is to pass up the chance to shop, chop, sizzle and snack on local foods no matter where you are.

This time round luck would have us staying in a Hilton Homewood Estate hotel where you get a real fridge, a two burner induction stove top, two pots, one sauté pan, a painfully dull chefs knife and assorted plates and silverware.

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Our small, tight and fully engaged kitchenette.

At first glance you think “just what the fuck am I gonna pull together with this lot?”  Kinda like a gauntlet being thrown down.

The gang and I decided to take the dare.

Turning to the internet, probably the greatest resource any chef can have besides a good prep cook, we sniffed out the North Lyndale Farmers Market in downtown Minneapolis.  One of a number of worthy farmers markets in the Twin Cities. Its current incarnation includes a significant presence of clothing, tchotchke sellers, nurseries with god knows more vegetable starter plants of every ilk than I have ever seen.  The experience made me feel like I was in real time Burbees Catalog. Kinda like a like a vegetable gardeners petting zoo.  Sadly the TSA and my friends on Southwest would humiliate me beyond the tolerable should I even attempt to bring home all that I wanted.

So it was on to furnishing victuals for dinner. True locally grown and produced food items were slim pickins by and large and included several cheese producers, a couple of stands with beef, pork, duck, buffalo and attendant sausages made there from.  Some ok, some less so.  In the produce department we found a handful of truck farms showing what you’d find In pretty much any super market, none of it locally grown.

After an extensive tour of the market we turned up perhaps 5 or so actual farmers selling what they grow. To a one their offerings appeared meager centering primarily on spring onions, lettuces, radishes and little else.  Considering the over abundance of rain this spring season this came as no surprise and after a few passes I realized that I should not expect to see much more than what I had already seen.   All but one of the farmers stands were of Asian heritage, most likely I figured they from the Hmong community that settled near there to farm several decades past.  Having visited with a similar Hmong farming community near Fresno, CA and researched a bit of their history  I greatly appreciate their talents and dedication to farming the land. They hew to tradition in what they grow and most often you’ll discover great things at their stands.

Dean, Terri and I conferred and tried on ideas for the dinner meal to be prepared. A bunch of spring onions, just beginning to bulb out a bit.  Next a bit of lettuce for salad. The find of the moment happened to be a farmer with half a dozen bunches of pristine pea shoots.  Those trimmings from youngish snap or snow pea plants can be quickly steamed and flavored with ginger and garlic, a dash of soy too, even a few chili flakes.  I scooped up a bunch along with some radishes. The menu was beginning to coalesce.

Further down one aisle, near the center of the market was an asparagus farmer. Arranged on the table were squat, handled brown paper bags filled with 3 and 2 lb weights of trimmed asparagus. A fellow working the stand pulled asparagus spears from a box and handed them out to people as they stopped to look-see.  Now I don’t want this to sound trite or quaint like just another over excited foodie chef spouting superlatives at the drop of a tomato but…….. this was (in more years than I care to admit) the best, THE BEST danged, freshest, sweetest asparagus I had ever tasted.  So friggin fresh it carried that high sugar mouth feel and super crisp snap that only something just pulled, plucked or picked can possess.

What really drove me to scour the market were locally foraged morel mushrooms.  Generally a rite of spring in the north Midwest and Western states this mushroom is a bit different than its many cousins. Our friends at Wikipedia who seem to have a listing for darn near everything offer that ” the genus Morchella is derived from morchel, an old German word for mushroom, while morel itself is derived from the Latin maurus meaning brown.”  There, now you know. Its distinct conical shape, heavily convoluted sets it apart from other mushrooms and the flavor leans towards woodsy with high notes of complex mushroom that you most often experience thru the olfactory senses as you exhale when eating them.  Delicate but pervasive. Awesome with a medium weight but developed red wine, and good company.

Lastly we stumbled upon a smallish locally based producer of pasta.  The menu was set.

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  • Pasta with morels and pea shoots, crisped spring onions, ham, fromage blanc
  • Grilled Asparagus and Calcots (spring onions in Catalan)
  • Radishes and Alemar Cheese Company Good Thunder
  • Miche Bread by Rustica Bakery

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A few words about the preparation of the meal.  Despite having the ability to sauté, stove top braise and boil, some seemingly common place kitchen tasks took on the guise of a kitchen rubric,. For example washing and drying the salad greens required invoking the – use the extra bath towel rule.

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Salad lettuces toweling off.

Juggling burners for various parts of the meal included:

  • infusing a particularly lackluster olive oil with the tops of the spring onions to gain a bit more umph for the dish
  • a few of the said onions were pickled in a savory brine of vinegar (since we had extra for the salad), water, sugar, salt and pepper ( in those sad little packets available courtesy of room service)
  • bits of some ham were crisped as a flavor garnish for the pasta
  • same for the some of the spring onions as we slow cooked them to a warm, crunchy goldenness.
  • Then on to the morel sautéed with a dash of white wine and lemon while the pea shoots were quickly steamed and held at the ready.
  • Asparagus grilled thanks to Dean and the hotel’s patio grill.
  • Pasta was last up and needed two pots and two burners.
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Pasta almost ready!

Amazingly the kitchen brigade included a colander!  Ho fortunato!

Here is the money shot of the main course with recipe below.

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  • 10 oz dried papardelle pasta
  • 6 oz morel mushrooms
  • 1 bunch (about 6 oz) pea shoots (you could sub snap peas or snow peas)
  • 6 spring onions, washed, roots and tops trimmed off and the bottoms sliced thin
  • 4 oz smoked ham (optional) julienne
  • 4 Tbsp fromage blanc (optional: grated parmesan)
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 Tbsp white wine
  • 1 tsp grated lemon zest
  • salt and pepper to taste

Begin by cleaning the mushrooms.  Cut in half and rinse quickly under running water to remove any dirt and creepy crawlies that may lurk within. It happens so don’t be buggin out.  Warm 1/4 cup olive oil in a pan with the onion tops and leave over a very low heat for about 10 minutes.  Remove from heat to let steep.  Heat 2 Tbsp of the infused oil in pan cook the sliced onions over a slow heat stirring occasionally. Do these really low and slow so they gradually go from white to translucent to golden.  Scoop them out and set aside.  They’ll crisp up nicely as they cool. In the same oil as the onions treat the ham as you did the sliced onion.  Shoot for a medium dark, crispy, crunchy texture. Hold aside for later. Saute the cleaned morels in the onion infused oil (about 4 Tbsp worth).  Let them go over a medium heat. Like most mushrooms they will release their juices which will then reduce away. Add the lemon zest.  When they are almost dry add the white wine and season with salt and pepper.  Reduce to sec and set aside. While the mushrooms are working steam the pea shoots in a tiny bit of water with salt.  Wilt them down until soft and tender, about 1 minute. Lastly crank up the water and cook the pasta.

To assemble it goes like this:

  1. Add the cooked morels to the pasta in the pan with several tablespoons of the pasta water and return to stove to warm through.
  2. Fold in the cooked and still hot pea shoots.
  3. Plate up and garnish with warm crisped ham, caramelized spring onion and a tablespoon or so of the fromage blanc.

Here are the numbers.

Nutrition Facts Serving Size  (277g)

Amount Per Serving Calories 490    Calories from Fat 170    % Daily Value Total Fat 19 g 29 %  Saturated Fat 3.5 g 18 %  Trans Fat 0 g    Cholesterol 150 mg 50 %  Sodium 720 mg 30 %  Total Carbohydrate 58 g 19 %  Dietary Fiber 6 g 24 %  Sugars 5 g    Protein 17 g

Vitamin A   20 %  Vitamin C   70 %  Calcium   10 %  Iron   45 %

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Roasted Red Junglefowl! Its what’s for dinner.

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Reading Roasted Gallus gallus domesticus on the menu probably won’t cause a positive gustatory response. Chicken(s) as we know them today are distant relatives of a wild species, Red Junglefowl, that was domesticated several thousand years BC for cockfighting in the Indian/ southeast Asian subcontinent.  From there their cultivation migrated across Asia and into the Middle East and the rest is history.

A chicken in every pot.  Upwards of 50 billion are farmed annually across the world.  Modern husbandry methods combined with careful breeding has produced strains that reach market in as little as 6 -12 weeks.  Cornish game hen?  Probably a young chicken of 25 or so days old.  Poussin?  maybe 60 days of age.  Fryers are next then broilers or roasters.  Each week produces a larger bird and different use.  Most of what we see in our markets are fryers of about 2 1/4 to 2/1/2 lbs each.  Roasters might be slightly larger at 3lbs.  Stew hens are harder to come by in most markets and may be as hefty as 6lbs.  The flavor of those birds can be bit of surprise for most palates.  Thinking back over the years I, as have many chefs and cooks, have ordered, marveled and agonized that the cases (24 to a case for fryers) of chickens oft times varied no more than a few ounces from each other while others 6-8 ounces.  When you portion it out and plate it the size difference can look silly one next to the other.  Remember, they aren’t widgets.

Here is a quick how-to on a roast chicken dish for dinner this week.  Personally there are few meals as satisfying as a simple roasted whole chicken, liberally seasoned with salt and pepper, served with an equally straight forward vegetable accompaniment and crisp salad.  Don’t stop here because the best and tastiest part is at the end below.

First and perhaps foremost is the chicken.  Do not, and I repeat, do not default to the sad, shrink wrapped bird thingy you find in most supermarkets.  Do yourself a big favor and get out there and find a locally raised bird.  Most supermarket chains will buy cases upon cases of birds that are factory farmed in Arkansas, Mississippi or similar points, harvested, iced, packed into plastic lined cardboard boxes and driven to wholesalers across the country.  Side by side the contrast is stark.  Factory farmed bird- flaccid and pale, no life to it at all.  Get one from the area in which you live and it will have a firmness to the flesh (check the wings), Better and best is it will be labeled from whence it came.  Take the time to start the discussion.  Its well worth it.  Ask the kind and respectable people who are behind the counter to tell you about that bird.  Queue the Portlandia chicken scene – Is this chicken local?

The freshness of the bird will make all the difference in the world come eating time.  I’ve visited smallish neighborhood markets, farmers’ markets, co-ops, fancy smanshy uppity markets from coast to coast and I know you can do it.

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Farm to Field Chicken seasoned and ready to rock!

Now that we have that settled lets get on  to the bird.  Let it sit at room temp for 30-45 min while the oven heats up (450F), the vegetables and potatoes get prepped, salad greens washed and table set.  Rather than make this an overwrought version of something out of a Top Chef outtake I suggest doing it up with kosher (or sea) salt.  Don’t be shy here.  Fresh ground pepper should go on too.  The wife and I like to add a few wedges of lemon, a scrunched up bouquet garni of thyme, parsley and fresh bay leaves.  Hey if you don’t have these its not the end of world.  Improvise.  My only advice is to keep it simple. WP_000977

Use a roasting pan (or any low sided pan) that leaves 3 inches or so around the chicken.  Key info here.  High sided pan, crammed in chicken equals a steamed bird.  Not the worst thing but not what we’re looking for here.  Good but for another type of dish.  After you season the bird give it a light treatment with a good olive oil.  Place it in the pan and into the oven it goes.

After 18 minutes pull the pan out and tip the chicken up from the front and let the juices run out of the cavity.  Things will sizzle and pop when you do this and this will help with the resulting jus that collects in the pan.  At the same time grab a small ladle or spoon and scoop up juices and melted chicken fat and pour it over the top of the bird.  Do this two or three times then return the chicken to the oven.  Repeat this several times over the next 15 minutes.

35-40 minutes from the time it goes in the oven check for doneness.  Several routes to go here.  You can pull one of the legs away from the body and snip in the crease there with a sharp knife to see if the juices run clear, if so you’re good to go.  Another is to employ one of those meat thermometers.  I like the fancier ones that are digital and have a probe with a long wire attached.  There great for all kinds of uses this being one.  Look for a temp of 145F.  Pull the pan out of the oven.  Give the bird a bathing again with its juices and let it rest for 15minutes before you cut it.  Same routine as with any roast or steak.  This will let the juices settle in the flesh and make for better eating piece of chicken.

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Out of the oven and resting. Almost ready to cut up.

(Okay, I know pretty much all sources are gonna tell you to cook chicken to 165F.  As the bird sits there resting prior to cutting up for service the internal temperature will continue to climb probably nearly reaching the hallowed 165 barrier.   I’m not going to argue with health and safety sources on whether its safe or not to eat chicken cooked this way.  Suffice to say this is how I cook mine.  I’ve enjoyed birds cooked in a similar fashion by any number of talented chefs and cooks with great results. Use your own discretion but I guarantee that erring on the lower side will give you a way juicer chicken experience.)

  1. Carving a chicken can be easy enough.  The great thing is that this can be the weekly training camp for that OMG moment in late November when you standing there faced with a much, much larger bird.  Ain’t no difference.  One’s a miniature of the other.                                WP_000665
  2. Separate the legs from the body by bringing the knife between the two.  Find the joint and with the tip of the knife locate the joint.  Pull down on the leg if its eluding you.  Push the knife thru and there you go. Repeat with the other leg.
  3. Next, separate the breasts from the bone.  Simply bring the knife (its sharp right?) along the breast bone then gently push and pull the breast meat away from the bone.  Take care to keep the skin intact.  Once its off you can slice it beautifully for serving.  WP_000666WP_000668
  4. Wings are a snap at this point.  Just find the joint and push the knife thru.  Bingo!

WP_000990 Now for the fun part.  You had to read to here to find it.  Under the chicken we had an onion chopped big in the pan along with several whole cloves of garlic and a few left over pieces of the meyer lemon that wouldn’t fit inside mr chicken.  No probs.  Toss em in along with.  While mr chcken is resting (ssshhhh!) set the pan on the stove top and let-er-rip.  Bring to boil, add 1+ Tablespoons Dijon mustard and 1 cup white wine.  Boil the heck outa this and let it reduce until it gets saucy and thick.  Don’t fret, just give a stir to keep any edges from getting crispy.  After 3 minutes you’ll see this begin to thicken up.  Keep heart and don’t turn you’re back.  If for some god awful chance it goes a tad too far turn off the heat and add a tablespoon or two of water (stock if you have but I was hope’n to avoid digging into the fridge for that).  You can strain it if you have OCD tendencies and need things neat or you can serve it up as is, all rustic like.

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See as the spatula is drawn across the bottom of the pan how it leaves a bare streak. That’s what we’re looking for.

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And now the numbers.

Nutrition Facts Serving Size  (195g)

Amount Per Serving Calories 470    Calories from Fat 320    % Daily Value Total Fat 35 g 54 %  Saturated Fat 9 g 45 %  Trans Fat 0 g    Cholesterol 140 mg 47 %  Sodium 610 mg 25 %  Total Carbohydrate 0 g 0 %  Dietary Fiber 0 g 0 %  Sugars 0 g    Protein 35 g

Vitamin A   6 %  Vitamin C   4 %  Calcium   2 %  Iron   10 %

Fava Beans, Chickpeas, Spring Onion Salata

Fava Bean Chickpea and spring onionHear that sound?  That snapin, popin sound?  Right now its fava time. That’s the sound of fava pods being broken open and those beauteous orbs of flavor hitting the bowl.  If you grow some in the backyard my hat’s off to you.  Here in the Bay Area we plant them in November and let them grow, ever so slowly, over the winter.  My experience is that they have a terrific germination rate (near 100%) and require little or no watering.  Come late April you’ll be blessed with an amazing crop of beans.  There is no downside to this.  Maybe the easiest thing you’ll every grow.

Many folks cringe and complain about the prep.  Shucking, blanching, slipping out of the inner skin.  Honestly its worth the effort.  Many hands make lite work.  Get a partner and you’ll be done in no time.  We bang out cases of these in restaurant kitchens without any thought.  Its spring, this is what’s at market, this is what we cook, what we serve and eat.

Here is one of many dishes we’ve been serving up this year.  There are several important things going on here.  First you’re eating with the seasons.  Two, the combination of fresh and dried legumes gives you a nice protein boost to your meal. (Around 12grams per serving)  The onion salata while also being uber-seasonal provides a great counterpoint to the beans and adds tons of flavor with very few calories.  And this dish is vegan as well as gluten free.

Serves 4 people as a side dish or six as an appetizer.

  • 1 lb fava beans, prepped, blanched and slipped out of their inner skin.
  • 1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (garbanzo beans)  Start with 1/2 cup dried.  Cover with plenty of water, bring to simmer and let cook slowly for 1 1/2 hours until soft.  Drain and set aside.
  • 2 spring onions, washed, trimmed and sliced very thinly.(about 1 cup with out the greens)
  • 1 tablespoons chopped olives (green or black just make sure there good)
  • juice of 1/2 a lemon and its zest (1 1/2 tablespoon juice)
  • 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
  • 2 teaspoons chopped mint
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • fresh ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup water

In a small bowl combine the thin sliced spring onions, chopped olive, parsley, half the salt and black pepper with the lemon zest and juice.  With your fingers separate the rings of the onion.  Set aside and let sit for 20 minutes or so.

spring onion salata

In a large sauté pan combine the cooked chickpeas with the water and olive oil.  Bring to a simmer.

fava bean and chickpeas

Cook for about 2 minutes over a lowish flame.  Next add the prepped fava beans and toss, toss, toss.  Warm up together

When hot add the rest of the salt to season.  Turn out onto an attractive bowl and garnish with the spring onion salata.

Easy as pie.

Here are the numbers.

Nutrition Facts Serving Size  (231g) Servings Per Container

Amount Per Serving Calories 270    Calories from Fat 90    % Daily Value Total Fat 10 g 15 %  Saturated Fat 1.5 g 8 %  Trans Fat 0 g    Cholesterol 0 mg 0 %  Sodium 200 mg 8 %  Total Carbohydrate 34 g 11 %  Dietary Fiber 10 g 40 %  Sugars 5 g    Protein 12 g

Vitamin A   10 %  Vitamin C   70 %  Calcium   6 %  Iron   25 %

the well seasoned athlete goes cycling in minneapolis (in what seems like the dead of winter)

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David, yours truly and Randall looking a bit damp, chilled and glad to be on the tail end of a day in the saddle.

Last month I spent the better part of two weeks in Minneapolis, Minnesota.  Since scheduling had me there over a weekend I hit the web and set up a bike rental and dig around for a group ride to hit up. Julie, a dear friend and expert bike fitter for Specialized bikes clued me into Eriks Bike Shop over in Dinkytown, right across the  mighty Mississippi River from downtown Minneapolis.

A few well spent minutes on the web had me locked and loaded on a Specialized Secteur for two days.  A few more key strokes led me to the Twin Cities Bike Club ( TCBC website and calendar) and their club ride calendar.  The advice here is to pack your riding kit (remember to research weather conditions, better yet bookmark that and follow it the week before you land) .  Late March pretty much every where can be a mixed bag of weather.  Cool, very cool, wet, sunny, warm(ish) or not.  Layering is the concept.  Bring your shoes, pedals and helmet.  Remember to take some important measurements from your bike set up.(another good reason invest in a proper bike fit)  Seat top to Bottom Bracket (or pedal ), seat to center of bar, seat to controls.  This will allow you to best approximate some of the geometry you’re come to know on your own bike.

As it was the bike shop I had picked was a modest 20 minute stroll from the hotel, Eriks Bike Shop over in Dinkytown, across the Big Muddy from where I was staying.  The staff at Eriks were awesome.  Super accommodating.

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Totally in tune to my intent and motives.  Did the requisite signing of the waver and monetary transaction (bike shops will charge your card with a value for the bike which is completely refundable when you return it- unscathed.  If you have any trepidations read the contract and fine print).  Shawn swapped out the pedals with mine, adjusted and tweaked the set-up with the measurements I gave him (cm and mm please-  that is how we measure it right?)

Though the calendar showed we had crossed the threshold into spring on the ground reality said something else.  Harsh winds that cut to the bone and temperatures that went from early morning teens to afternoon low thirties (Fahrenheit) were real time conditions. That West Coast clime I’ve accustomed to left me reeling and second guessing that early AM roll out.

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My rented Specialized ready to rock (and roll)

Saturday showed up blustery, occasional bouts of light rain and…. well lets just say it was f’n… cold too.  The ride calendar called for an 8am rendezvous at Dunn Bros. Coffee on East Lake near the Big Muddy (Mississippi River).

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Ride leader for the day was Randall Huskamp of the TCBC.  ( Twin Cities Bike Club )   We started as a group of six in a pitter patter of rain and cold.  I felt less like a fish out of water as I noticed the guys in the group were rugged up pretty much like I was.  Rolling out along the Mid Town Greenway spinning a quick cadence provided the best defense against the frigid and damp morning.  Sections of the Greenway are made up of a long ago abandoned railroad right of way that traversed the city.  Forward thinking city planners and local bike advocacy  groups worked to create a smoothly paved and groomed bikeway that stretches for miles.  One of its landmarks is the Hiawatha Bridge  designed by Martin Olav Sabo.

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A graceful suspension bicycle span over the railroad tracks provides a lyrical focal point on the skyline.

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Well designed and beautiful to ride.

The greater Minneapolis area boasts something like 90+ miles of bike lanes and share-ways as well as a whopping 85 miles of dedicated bikeways.  During my several days of riding there I can attest to how extensive it is as we rolled through many a mile on our routes.  Riders can either stay on the marked bikeways or use them to get outside the city limits and into the surrounding countryside as we did on our ride out to  Lake Minnetonka. Minneapolis boasts major props by a number of polls and publications like http://www.walkscore.com/bike. Bottom line is that this is one bike friendly city and place to be.  And the riding is super.

The guys had a 60 mile ride mapped out.  One realization was that the stories about town and city limit sign sprints are true.  I swear every time I looked up there was another mad dash sprint for one. Gotta keep on your toes for this kind of mid-west riding.  One I have to say is that its a good way to get your sprint on.  I think I came away with a couple of seconds at best.  Whew!

One thing I came away with is that its kinda flat out there in the middle of the US of A.  Lots of false flats, short hillocks and longish ramp like sections to the terrain.  Coming from the San Francisco Bay Area where climbing is a part of swinging a leg over a bike this was a bit of a change.  Considering the travel, work schedule and such that was all okay with the legs.

After nearly 60 miles of riding in and out of the rain, the cold and wind it was good to sit up and soft pedal back to the hotel.  Long hot shower, a bit of grub and good to go.

Here are several take-aways from riding Minneapolis.  First is that the riding there is top notch with no reason not to take advantage of the options.  Second, cycling is alive there and there are a lot of friendly folks to meet along the way.   Lastly, never under estimate weather.  You’ll thank yourself for it later.

Taking it on the Road

Recently I’ve had some work related travel so I thought I’d share some experiences and tips for maintaining your fitness on the road.  Those who travel understand the challenges and hurdles of keeping to some semblance of schedule for training.  Flights, lay overs, jet lag, work schedule, time differences and weather.  Individually or collectively  or combinations there of will lay waste to the best laid planes.  Planning, however, is the key to making it work for you.

Over the years I have run, cycled and swum in seven countries and several dozen cities in all manner of weather and conditions.  Here are my tips for keeping it all together.

  • Make a schedule of what you intend to do workout wise in advance.  Be realistic.  You may not be able to get it all in and that may be okay.
  • Look at the weather for the time you’ll be there.  Bookmark it, make it one of your locations on the app.  What looked like sunny and mild today may be forecasted as overcast with a chance of thunder showers 4 days later.
  • Research the area where you will be staying for possible places to do your training.  Is there a gym, pool, fitness club (or center ) nearby? For cycling spin classes or access to a stationary bike can work quite well.  A pool (even a short one) will allow you to maintain some of the all important muscle memory of swimming.
  • Cross-training as an option.  Rather than be obsessive on one discipline consider mixing it up on the road.  A quick paced circuit routine in the hotel’s fitness center can be just the ticket to keeping the juices flowing.  Mix it up a bit with a little time on the treadmill then move on to light weight, 15-20 rep routines with free-weights or machines.  The key is to get the heart rate up and keep it there.  Try for a 30-40 minute session.  Longer if you have the time and focus.
  • Out the door.  Scope out the location around your hotel on Google Maps and Google Earth.  Are there parks close by or within striking distance?  In cities quite often rivers and shore fronts will have trails or pathways for mix use, pedestrians and cyclists.  If you’re only there a short time plan simple out and back routes or easy loops.  Staying longer?  Once you become more familiar with the area include a few twists and turns if you care.  Use landmarks to keep your bearings straight.
  • Wardrobe choices. For running I always go for layers.  Leave nothing to chance.  A long sleeve mico-fiber jersey over a singlet or short-sleeve version can be warm enough even in mid-thirties weather. Running gloves, headband or head gear (I will pack a baseball cap as well), shorts, tights or leggings if it looks to be under 45 F.  Shoes– one pair should be enough unless you plan on racing then bring your  favorite flats along with training shoes.  Socks– several pairs and remember for longer stays you can wash by hand if need be.  If it looks like rain pack a rain jacket (also if it looks like frigid temperatures with wind).  Running watch.  Though most of us use our phones for the time a watch comes in handy, especially on those out and back runs.  Easy enough to go out for 20-30 then turnaround head back.
  • Cycling.  This presents a bit more planning along with the bulk in the suitcase.  Think about checking your bag if you’re going this route.  As with running your in the saddle wardrobe should be done in layers (unless you’re going to Palm Springs, Houston or Miami).  Experienced cyclists know that the early morning roll out more than likely requires an extra layer that can be peeled off later.  For a recent trip to Minneapolis I packed two base layers, long sleeve riding jersey, short sleeve jersey, arm and leg warmers, vest, wool socks, gloves and a hat that covered my ears.  Cheaper taking it along rather than purchasing it on the fly once you get there.  I ended up using every bit of it.  Unfortunately I played the doofus card and neglected to bring a rain cape.  Lesson was learned.  It rained.  Murphy’s Law wins again.
  • Group rides or going it alone.  Hooking up with a group ride offers some advantages.  Mainly you’re riding with folks who know where they are going.  A big plus.  Many bike clubs have web pages with links to their club rides. Quite often they will include some info on ride length and the pace at which they will ride.  Its okay to drop a line to the ride leader and let em know you’re coming.  Also a check in on your local ride forum may turn up results.  Don’t forget that if you rent a bike to ask the bike shop about rides, routes and rider rendezvous points.
  • Equipment.  Unless you plan on riding more than a couple of days renting a bike is the way to go.  Cheaper and less hassle than hauling your own rig across the great divide for a couple of weekend sessions.  If you do rent there are often easy online rental sites.  We are well into the 21st century and should expect nothing less.  One very, very important item!   Bring your own pedals, shoes and helmet.  Also get some measurements on your daily ride like saddle height, seat to bar length and seat to bar drop.(Here is a really good reason to have a proper bike fit)   Give these numbers to the mechanics at the bike shop where you rent and have them set up the ride for you.  Should be included in the price of the rental.  Make friends with them, after all they are part of the tribe.
  • Go for a walk.  Brisk or otherwise it may be the tonic of the moment.  Either alone of with companions if you are accustomed to being out of doors for your workout routine this can fit the bill.  Doubly so if coupled with that quick paced circuit work out mentioned above.  Don’t forget to take in the view.
  • Lastly, be flexible.  I mean that more than just your daily stretching routine.  As mentioned above cross training has heaps of benefits.  Besides engaging a varying set of skills and muscle groups it will afford you the chance to get out and enjoy your time in a strange or foreign place.  Allow you to roll with the punches and adapt to the changing conditions of travel. I can’t begin to list all the fun and fabulous sites, sounds and experiences I’ve discovered adopting this philosophy.

The Muur Bar

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Just finished up version 3.0 of my Muur Bar.  Christened in honor of the famous cobbled, steep climbs of Belgian cycling lore like the Muur van Geraardsbergen and the Mur de Huy.

A quick on the fly snack to get us over the hill and on towards the finale.  In typical chefy fashion I succumbed to the urge to work up my own version of an “energy bar” snack.  A few things drove the process on this.

  • Control the amount of sweetener.  A lot of bars are wasyyy too sweet.  Much of their boost is in cane sugar they pour in there.
  • Make it without gluten.
  • Pack it with natural, organic ingredients that will offer nourishment and some level of sustained energy.
  • Is it possible to make it like “real food”?

And so it goes from there.  Still dealing with how some of the ingredients work together.  How to alter texture?  What happens after its done?  Shelf-life?  What do the numbers look like?

Basically I was looking to approximate the nutrient numbers of some of the other bar options out here but still stay within my chosen  criteria.  Wheat free, nut driven, no egg product, dairy ok, no cane or sugar beet sugar, no gluten.  Keep the protein up, fat in control (but good fat which is not that hard actually), sweet but not too so.

A number of samples have been handed out.  Hard core dancers, cyclists, runners.  Some feedback has filtered in, more to come.  Stay tuned for version 3.1, 3.6, 4.0 with improved mouth feel and flavorings.

Flavor fore and aft

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Over the last couple of weeks I’ve been re-visiting the joys and flavors of chops from good, pasture raised pigs.  Pretty much from coast to coast you can now find pork farmers who adhere to traditional methods of farming animals on pasture (as opposed to confinement farming  ( See the Meatrix here ).

Here in northern California we have access to a handful of pork sources that don’t practice the confinement version of hog farming.  Happily there are several that find their way into the retail market (as much of the good stuff ends up on restaurant menus these days).  River Dog Farm  who I mentioned in another post and Devils Gulch Ranch are but two examples.

About a year ago I was invited on a day tour of River Dog Farm  along with a group of fellow chefs.  As part of the walk-about the owner Tim Cambell explained how they came to be farming pigs.  Being a sizeable organic fruit and vegetable farmer in Capay Valley, not far from Davis, California they composted those parts of the crops that don’t make the cut to be bagged, boxed and sold (or donated).  Not a an uncommon practice actually.    It may be hard to imagine but those compost piles get pretty damn huge.  What with all the parts of tomato plants, eggplant fields, summer and hard squash stands left over as the seasons move along it immediately grows to a heaping big pile of plant matter.  That along with the culls from each crop are often left to rot in the field or nearby untended.  Its a lot of stuff, honestly. So for some time they simply composted all of it using the compost in some of their fields.  Not a bad solution you think.  Except that now they found themselves sending manpower and machinery to manage the compost piles.  Soon the tail was wagging the dog. A great idea as far as sustainability in farming but the bottom line was the compose crop wasn’t paying for itself.  Could there be a better way?

Hog farming as a value added crop.  In early 2008 owners,Tim and Trini Cambell were talked into keeping a small population of pigs.  As a trial they could feed them the culls of the crops, bruised tomatoes, carrots, funky squash, that sort of thing.   Not wanting to replicate the resource investment of the compost business Tim and Trini were able to grow out a herd of hogs that  are a cross of Old Tamworth, Duroc and feral wild hogs.  This last breed helps greatly in the ability of the pigs to fend for themselves, both as foragers for their food but also in resisting wild predators like coyotes and taking care of their litters.  A sequestered area down a long dirt road to a remote area behind several well-weathered barns became the hog pen.  Moveable fencing allows the hogs to find wild forage of nuts, acorns grasses and roots.  That plus the sorted culls aid in producing some healthy 300lb hogs.  Now the hogs they farm are coveted by chefs and discerning home cooks across Northern California.  Since their main passion and business are farming vegetables and fruits the hog side of things allows them to better manage an important aspect of their operation.  And we get to enjoy some of the rewards too.

Rather than go into a lengthy treatise on the whys and what fores of pasture based animal husbandry I’ll just flat out say that it is the way to go.  No amount of arguing the economics or culinary attributes will sway me from my opinion that factory farmed beef, pork or chicken is just plain wrong.   Its bad for the air, land, water.  The business model is horribly flawed.  We read about some of the consequences weekly.  And it makes for some not very tasty food.  Sadly we have let ourselves go way too far down the road to the point where just three corporate entities control all of the animal protein production and sales in this country.  Their industry is based on getting their product to market as quickly as possible at the expense of land, water, air and human resources.  The promise of cheap, plentiful food is a hollow promise that all should question and resent.

Done with that lets talk about chops.  As a brief overview of a hog butcher cuts that we see in the display case we have the following.  Keep in mind that this is a partial listing minus the nuance of beauty that an experienced eye, hand and knife can create.

  • Shoulder (Boston butt, picnic ham) skin on or off.
  • Loin ( bone on or off loin, baby back ribs, loin chops, pork chops, porterhouse pork chops, also the tenderloin is attached to the loin on the bone side towards its rear-ward end)
  • Ham (along with ham this is where culatelo, prosciutto, ham hocks, pork osso bucco)

But this is really about chops.  Probably most of us are more than familiar with your standard pork chop.  Thin or thick it can make for some great eating.  For this posting I’m going to focus on chops from the front and far end of the loin. Referring to the illustration at the top of the page first lets try chops from near the shoulder.

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Pork Loin Shoulder Chop – click on pic for a larger view.

You can see in the picture there is a substantial amount of layering in the meat.   These are different muscles overlapping the other each promising its own texture, marbling and flavor.  Texture is as important here as is flavor.  The closer to the shoulder we get the more “toothsome” the flesh becomes as the eye of the loin gets smaller with other shoulder muscles enveloping the loin.  At the same time the shoulder meat is hella better marbled which means flavor with a capitol F.  In cooking these kinda chops the word of the day is slow.  And low.  Thicker is better (this is for two) .  Set the temperature gauge on the oven at 325 F.  Give the chop(s) a good dose of salt and pepper, sear them off in a cast iron skillet over an aggressive flame then move it to the oven and walk away.

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For a chop of 12-16 oz you’re lookin at near 15+ minutes or so.  Use a good meat thermometer and pull it out when it hits 145F.  Sit it on the cutting board and let the chop rest for 15 minutes.  Resting your meat after cooking helps greatly with the final texture.  Cut open right away and it will bleed away most of its juices (and flavor).  Even more key is this will let the muscle fibers relax.  Think suave-ricco on the palate.

Next up we travel down the loin to the aft end of the loin.  Along the bottom end of the loin rests the tenderloin.  Unlike the beef version which weighs in at 5 to 6 pounds the porcine version comes in at barely one pound and measures around 3 inches in diameter and about 12 inches long.  The larger end begins just beyond the end of the loin where technically the sirloin would be but really becomes the leg or ham. Its sits there nestled snugly against the rib bones on the other side form the actual eye of the loin.  Most often they’re removed, frozen and sold separately.  A bit of a terrible thing to do to a worthy cut.  Has done much to sour my desire to seek them out.  One of those cuts that can be overrated and over cooked.

Salvation!   If you cut a chop (or steak) from the aft end of the loin ( with the bone of course) and it has the tenderloin attached it gets to be christened a “porterhouse”.  A happy union of pork loin, baby back rib bone and tenderloin wrapped with, OMG, pork fat.  Done with care and attention this can be superb eating.

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Pork Porterhouse- Loin eye on right, tenderloin on left. Luv all around.

For me I don’t get all cranked up fussin over fancy marinades and all.  When I’m gearing to enjoy the flavor of the thing its salt and pepper, a smattering of herb, hint of garlic perchance, a smidge of zest too.  A good sear to accentuate the flavor of the fat cover.  And as we know- FAT is Flavor.  A little can go a long way and in moderate doses can be a good thing.  For many of us.  Helps develop and focus flavor and can aid in telling the body that “hey, I’ve had some nourishment here and its enough for now”

This one was for two people and done in the fashion of Adam Perry Lang. from his book  Scarred and Scruffed. 

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Cooked and Sliced! Loin on the right, tenderloin on the left.

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Family Meal- with Sriracha

WP_000737More than once during the string of years I’ve toiled in restaurant kitchens friends or acquaintances bring up the matter of “what do you eat when you work?” or “you guys must eat really well.”  Regarding the former, “everything and anything”.  As to the former “not really” or “sometimes” or “actually don’t think about most of time.” Its a lot sampling, munching on this or that. A particularly endearing carrot or radish, ah, a smacking good trimming off a roasted joint of meat, and that bodacious local cheese that just came in the door. Don’t get me started on cherries or berries in season.

Actually most often we end  up scarfing down a plate of food between setup and service, its called Family Meal in restaurant parlance. Each day, each shift its someone’s responsibility to pull together a couple of dishes for all the staff, front and back of the house.

Ideally its got to adhere to a short list of criteria.

  • Use up what the sous or chef say is okay to use.
  • Pull it together in an hour or less ( this for anywhere from 6 to 25 people).
  • Make just enough, not too much (the chef will get pissed that you’re wasting good ingredients, not matter how dog eared or plentiful they may be)
  • .And if you make too little, oh god the chef will have your head, as you scramble to pull something more together on the fly.
  • Finally your peers will find a special place in their hell since they will have to pick up you sad sack of slack as you fall behind in your prep to set up for service.

As I fixed the post-ride lunch today I had to snicker and write this.  Left over pasta, left over braised broccoli shoots, poached egg, Sriracha sauce.

Quintessential family meal fare.  Really not because its was anything left over, not that it was pasta, with a bit of vegetable, with an egg.  It was all that and.  Srirachia Sauce.  That’s what made it.  Peak inside any kitchen at 4pm and you’ll find a huddle of cooks and chefs scarfing down what was, what is of the moment from  the walk-in fridge.  Methodically, religiously, purposefully doused with Sriacha.  Its what keeps America’s cooks in gear.