Roasted Red Junglefowl! Its what’s for dinner.

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Reading Roasted Gallus gallus domesticus on the menu probably won’t cause a positive gustatory response. Chicken(s) as we know them today are distant relatives of a wild species, Red Junglefowl, that was domesticated several thousand years BC for cockfighting in the Indian/ southeast Asian subcontinent.  From there their cultivation migrated across Asia and into the Middle East and the rest is history.

A chicken in every pot.  Upwards of 50 billion are farmed annually across the world.  Modern husbandry methods combined with careful breeding has produced strains that reach market in as little as 6 -12 weeks.  Cornish game hen?  Probably a young chicken of 25 or so days old.  Poussin?  maybe 60 days of age.  Fryers are next then broilers or roasters.  Each week produces a larger bird and different use.  Most of what we see in our markets are fryers of about 2 1/4 to 2/1/2 lbs each.  Roasters might be slightly larger at 3lbs.  Stew hens are harder to come by in most markets and may be as hefty as 6lbs.  The flavor of those birds can be bit of surprise for most palates.  Thinking back over the years I, as have many chefs and cooks, have ordered, marveled and agonized that the cases (24 to a case for fryers) of chickens oft times varied no more than a few ounces from each other while others 6-8 ounces.  When you portion it out and plate it the size difference can look silly one next to the other.  Remember, they aren’t widgets.

Here is a quick how-to on a roast chicken dish for dinner this week.  Personally there are few meals as satisfying as a simple roasted whole chicken, liberally seasoned with salt and pepper, served with an equally straight forward vegetable accompaniment and crisp salad.  Don’t stop here because the best and tastiest part is at the end below.

First and perhaps foremost is the chicken.  Do not, and I repeat, do not default to the sad, shrink wrapped bird thingy you find in most supermarkets.  Do yourself a big favor and get out there and find a locally raised bird.  Most supermarket chains will buy cases upon cases of birds that are factory farmed in Arkansas, Mississippi or similar points, harvested, iced, packed into plastic lined cardboard boxes and driven to wholesalers across the country.  Side by side the contrast is stark.  Factory farmed bird- flaccid and pale, no life to it at all.  Get one from the area in which you live and it will have a firmness to the flesh (check the wings), Better and best is it will be labeled from whence it came.  Take the time to start the discussion.  Its well worth it.  Ask the kind and respectable people who are behind the counter to tell you about that bird.  Queue the Portlandia chicken scene – Is this chicken local?

The freshness of the bird will make all the difference in the world come eating time.  I’ve visited smallish neighborhood markets, farmers’ markets, co-ops, fancy smanshy uppity markets from coast to coast and I know you can do it.

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Farm to Field Chicken seasoned and ready to rock!

Now that we have that settled lets get on  to the bird.  Let it sit at room temp for 30-45 min while the oven heats up (450F), the vegetables and potatoes get prepped, salad greens washed and table set.  Rather than make this an overwrought version of something out of a Top Chef outtake I suggest doing it up with kosher (or sea) salt.  Don’t be shy here.  Fresh ground pepper should go on too.  The wife and I like to add a few wedges of lemon, a scrunched up bouquet garni of thyme, parsley and fresh bay leaves.  Hey if you don’t have these its not the end of world.  Improvise.  My only advice is to keep it simple. WP_000977

Use a roasting pan (or any low sided pan) that leaves 3 inches or so around the chicken.  Key info here.  High sided pan, crammed in chicken equals a steamed bird.  Not the worst thing but not what we’re looking for here.  Good but for another type of dish.  After you season the bird give it a light treatment with a good olive oil.  Place it in the pan and into the oven it goes.

After 18 minutes pull the pan out and tip the chicken up from the front and let the juices run out of the cavity.  Things will sizzle and pop when you do this and this will help with the resulting jus that collects in the pan.  At the same time grab a small ladle or spoon and scoop up juices and melted chicken fat and pour it over the top of the bird.  Do this two or three times then return the chicken to the oven.  Repeat this several times over the next 15 minutes.

35-40 minutes from the time it goes in the oven check for doneness.  Several routes to go here.  You can pull one of the legs away from the body and snip in the crease there with a sharp knife to see if the juices run clear, if so you’re good to go.  Another is to employ one of those meat thermometers.  I like the fancier ones that are digital and have a probe with a long wire attached.  There great for all kinds of uses this being one.  Look for a temp of 145F.  Pull the pan out of the oven.  Give the bird a bathing again with its juices and let it rest for 15minutes before you cut it.  Same routine as with any roast or steak.  This will let the juices settle in the flesh and make for better eating piece of chicken.

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Out of the oven and resting. Almost ready to cut up.

(Okay, I know pretty much all sources are gonna tell you to cook chicken to 165F.  As the bird sits there resting prior to cutting up for service the internal temperature will continue to climb probably nearly reaching the hallowed 165 barrier.   I’m not going to argue with health and safety sources on whether its safe or not to eat chicken cooked this way.  Suffice to say this is how I cook mine.  I’ve enjoyed birds cooked in a similar fashion by any number of talented chefs and cooks with great results. Use your own discretion but I guarantee that erring on the lower side will give you a way juicer chicken experience.)

  1. Carving a chicken can be easy enough.  The great thing is that this can be the weekly training camp for that OMG moment in late November when you standing there faced with a much, much larger bird.  Ain’t no difference.  One’s a miniature of the other.                                WP_000665
  2. Separate the legs from the body by bringing the knife between the two.  Find the joint and with the tip of the knife locate the joint.  Pull down on the leg if its eluding you.  Push the knife thru and there you go. Repeat with the other leg.
  3. Next, separate the breasts from the bone.  Simply bring the knife (its sharp right?) along the breast bone then gently push and pull the breast meat away from the bone.  Take care to keep the skin intact.  Once its off you can slice it beautifully for serving.  WP_000666WP_000668
  4. Wings are a snap at this point.  Just find the joint and push the knife thru.  Bingo!

WP_000990 Now for the fun part.  You had to read to here to find it.  Under the chicken we had an onion chopped big in the pan along with several whole cloves of garlic and a few left over pieces of the meyer lemon that wouldn’t fit inside mr chicken.  No probs.  Toss em in along with.  While mr chcken is resting (ssshhhh!) set the pan on the stove top and let-er-rip.  Bring to boil, add 1+ Tablespoons Dijon mustard and 1 cup white wine.  Boil the heck outa this and let it reduce until it gets saucy and thick.  Don’t fret, just give a stir to keep any edges from getting crispy.  After 3 minutes you’ll see this begin to thicken up.  Keep heart and don’t turn you’re back.  If for some god awful chance it goes a tad too far turn off the heat and add a tablespoon or two of water (stock if you have but I was hope’n to avoid digging into the fridge for that).  You can strain it if you have OCD tendencies and need things neat or you can serve it up as is, all rustic like.

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See as the spatula is drawn across the bottom of the pan how it leaves a bare streak. That’s what we’re looking for.

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And now the numbers.

Nutrition Facts Serving Size  (195g)

Amount Per Serving Calories 470    Calories from Fat 320    % Daily Value Total Fat 35 g 54 %  Saturated Fat 9 g 45 %  Trans Fat 0 g    Cholesterol 140 mg 47 %  Sodium 610 mg 25 %  Total Carbohydrate 0 g 0 %  Dietary Fiber 0 g 0 %  Sugars 0 g    Protein 35 g

Vitamin A   6 %  Vitamin C   4 %  Calcium   2 %  Iron   10 %

The Muur Bar

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Just finished up version 3.0 of my Muur Bar.  Christened in honor of the famous cobbled, steep climbs of Belgian cycling lore like the Muur van Geraardsbergen and the Mur de Huy.

A quick on the fly snack to get us over the hill and on towards the finale.  In typical chefy fashion I succumbed to the urge to work up my own version of an “energy bar” snack.  A few things drove the process on this.

  • Control the amount of sweetener.  A lot of bars are wasyyy too sweet.  Much of their boost is in cane sugar they pour in there.
  • Make it without gluten.
  • Pack it with natural, organic ingredients that will offer nourishment and some level of sustained energy.
  • Is it possible to make it like “real food”?

And so it goes from there.  Still dealing with how some of the ingredients work together.  How to alter texture?  What happens after its done?  Shelf-life?  What do the numbers look like?

Basically I was looking to approximate the nutrient numbers of some of the other bar options out here but still stay within my chosen  criteria.  Wheat free, nut driven, no egg product, dairy ok, no cane or sugar beet sugar, no gluten.  Keep the protein up, fat in control (but good fat which is not that hard actually), sweet but not too so.

A number of samples have been handed out.  Hard core dancers, cyclists, runners.  Some feedback has filtered in, more to come.  Stay tuned for version 3.1, 3.6, 4.0 with improved mouth feel and flavorings.

Flavor fore and aft

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Over the last couple of weeks I’ve been re-visiting the joys and flavors of chops from good, pasture raised pigs.  Pretty much from coast to coast you can now find pork farmers who adhere to traditional methods of farming animals on pasture (as opposed to confinement farming  ( See the Meatrix here ).

Here in northern California we have access to a handful of pork sources that don’t practice the confinement version of hog farming.  Happily there are several that find their way into the retail market (as much of the good stuff ends up on restaurant menus these days).  River Dog Farm  who I mentioned in another post and Devils Gulch Ranch are but two examples.

About a year ago I was invited on a day tour of River Dog Farm  along with a group of fellow chefs.  As part of the walk-about the owner Tim Cambell explained how they came to be farming pigs.  Being a sizeable organic fruit and vegetable farmer in Capay Valley, not far from Davis, California they composted those parts of the crops that don’t make the cut to be bagged, boxed and sold (or donated).  Not a an uncommon practice actually.    It may be hard to imagine but those compost piles get pretty damn huge.  What with all the parts of tomato plants, eggplant fields, summer and hard squash stands left over as the seasons move along it immediately grows to a heaping big pile of plant matter.  That along with the culls from each crop are often left to rot in the field or nearby untended.  Its a lot of stuff, honestly. So for some time they simply composted all of it using the compost in some of their fields.  Not a bad solution you think.  Except that now they found themselves sending manpower and machinery to manage the compost piles.  Soon the tail was wagging the dog. A great idea as far as sustainability in farming but the bottom line was the compose crop wasn’t paying for itself.  Could there be a better way?

Hog farming as a value added crop.  In early 2008 owners,Tim and Trini Cambell were talked into keeping a small population of pigs.  As a trial they could feed them the culls of the crops, bruised tomatoes, carrots, funky squash, that sort of thing.   Not wanting to replicate the resource investment of the compost business Tim and Trini were able to grow out a herd of hogs that  are a cross of Old Tamworth, Duroc and feral wild hogs.  This last breed helps greatly in the ability of the pigs to fend for themselves, both as foragers for their food but also in resisting wild predators like coyotes and taking care of their litters.  A sequestered area down a long dirt road to a remote area behind several well-weathered barns became the hog pen.  Moveable fencing allows the hogs to find wild forage of nuts, acorns grasses and roots.  That plus the sorted culls aid in producing some healthy 300lb hogs.  Now the hogs they farm are coveted by chefs and discerning home cooks across Northern California.  Since their main passion and business are farming vegetables and fruits the hog side of things allows them to better manage an important aspect of their operation.  And we get to enjoy some of the rewards too.

Rather than go into a lengthy treatise on the whys and what fores of pasture based animal husbandry I’ll just flat out say that it is the way to go.  No amount of arguing the economics or culinary attributes will sway me from my opinion that factory farmed beef, pork or chicken is just plain wrong.   Its bad for the air, land, water.  The business model is horribly flawed.  We read about some of the consequences weekly.  And it makes for some not very tasty food.  Sadly we have let ourselves go way too far down the road to the point where just three corporate entities control all of the animal protein production and sales in this country.  Their industry is based on getting their product to market as quickly as possible at the expense of land, water, air and human resources.  The promise of cheap, plentiful food is a hollow promise that all should question and resent.

Done with that lets talk about chops.  As a brief overview of a hog butcher cuts that we see in the display case we have the following.  Keep in mind that this is a partial listing minus the nuance of beauty that an experienced eye, hand and knife can create.

  • Shoulder (Boston butt, picnic ham) skin on or off.
  • Loin ( bone on or off loin, baby back ribs, loin chops, pork chops, porterhouse pork chops, also the tenderloin is attached to the loin on the bone side towards its rear-ward end)
  • Ham (along with ham this is where culatelo, prosciutto, ham hocks, pork osso bucco)

But this is really about chops.  Probably most of us are more than familiar with your standard pork chop.  Thin or thick it can make for some great eating.  For this posting I’m going to focus on chops from the front and far end of the loin. Referring to the illustration at the top of the page first lets try chops from near the shoulder.

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Pork Loin Shoulder Chop – click on pic for a larger view.

You can see in the picture there is a substantial amount of layering in the meat.   These are different muscles overlapping the other each promising its own texture, marbling and flavor.  Texture is as important here as is flavor.  The closer to the shoulder we get the more “toothsome” the flesh becomes as the eye of the loin gets smaller with other shoulder muscles enveloping the loin.  At the same time the shoulder meat is hella better marbled which means flavor with a capitol F.  In cooking these kinda chops the word of the day is slow.  And low.  Thicker is better (this is for two) .  Set the temperature gauge on the oven at 325 F.  Give the chop(s) a good dose of salt and pepper, sear them off in a cast iron skillet over an aggressive flame then move it to the oven and walk away.

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For a chop of 12-16 oz you’re lookin at near 15+ minutes or so.  Use a good meat thermometer and pull it out when it hits 145F.  Sit it on the cutting board and let the chop rest for 15 minutes.  Resting your meat after cooking helps greatly with the final texture.  Cut open right away and it will bleed away most of its juices (and flavor).  Even more key is this will let the muscle fibers relax.  Think suave-ricco on the palate.

Next up we travel down the loin to the aft end of the loin.  Along the bottom end of the loin rests the tenderloin.  Unlike the beef version which weighs in at 5 to 6 pounds the porcine version comes in at barely one pound and measures around 3 inches in diameter and about 12 inches long.  The larger end begins just beyond the end of the loin where technically the sirloin would be but really becomes the leg or ham. Its sits there nestled snugly against the rib bones on the other side form the actual eye of the loin.  Most often they’re removed, frozen and sold separately.  A bit of a terrible thing to do to a worthy cut.  Has done much to sour my desire to seek them out.  One of those cuts that can be overrated and over cooked.

Salvation!   If you cut a chop (or steak) from the aft end of the loin ( with the bone of course) and it has the tenderloin attached it gets to be christened a “porterhouse”.  A happy union of pork loin, baby back rib bone and tenderloin wrapped with, OMG, pork fat.  Done with care and attention this can be superb eating.

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Pork Porterhouse- Loin eye on right, tenderloin on left. Luv all around.

For me I don’t get all cranked up fussin over fancy marinades and all.  When I’m gearing to enjoy the flavor of the thing its salt and pepper, a smattering of herb, hint of garlic perchance, a smidge of zest too.  A good sear to accentuate the flavor of the fat cover.  And as we know- FAT is Flavor.  A little can go a long way and in moderate doses can be a good thing.  For many of us.  Helps develop and focus flavor and can aid in telling the body that “hey, I’ve had some nourishment here and its enough for now”

This one was for two people and done in the fashion of Adam Perry Lang. from his book  Scarred and Scruffed. 

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Cooked and Sliced! Loin on the right, tenderloin on the left.

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